4 min read
What is a salvage title: how to read an auction lot
At a US auction, every lot description shows the car's title, damage and condition. Reading these fields correctly is the simplest way to avoid a bad bid. Below we explain the labels you will see most often.
Title types
In the USA, a car's title shows its legal status. The types you will see most often at auction:
- Clean: the insurer did not declare the car a total loss. This does not mean there is no damage: a car with minor damage can also sell with a clean title.
- Salvage: the insurer considered the car badly damaged and paid out the owner. Most lots at auction are like this. After repair and inspection the car can be registered again.
- Rebuilt or Reconstructed: a salvage car that has been repaired and has passed the state inspection.
- Non-repairable, Certificate of Destruction, Parts only: the car is sold for parts only and cannot go back on the road in the USA. Such a lot may have registration restrictions, so talk to us before you bid.
Title names can differ from state to state (for example Salvage Certificate, Junk). If you do not recognise the name, ask before you bid.
Damage labels
A lot usually has two damage fields: Primary damage and Secondary damage. The most common ones:
- Front end, Rear end: the front or rear is damaged.
- Side: side damage; the doors and pillars should be checked.
- Hail: hail damage, usually many dents in the body.
- Water/Flood: flood damage. It calls for the most caution because of the risk to electronics and of corrosion.
- Mechanical: an engine or transmission fault.
- Burn: fire damage.
- Minor dents/scratches: small dents and scratches.
The damage in the description is the auction's initial note and does not show every fault. Look closely at the photos: tyres, airbags, interior and engine bay.
Condition labels
- Run and Drive: at the yard the engine was started and the car moved. This does not confirm the car is fully roadworthy.
- Engine Starts: the engine starts, but driving was not tested or did not work.
- Stationary or Does not start: the engine does not start or was not tested.
- Keys: whether keys are present. For a car without keys, a new key is an extra cost later.
- Airbags deployed: the airbags have gone off; replacing them is an expensive part of the repair.
Odometer status
- Actual: the mileage shown is real.
- Not Actual, Exempt: the mileage is not considered real, or the car is exempt from checks because of its age. Do not rely on the mileage of such a lot.
- Exceeds Mechanical Limits: the odometer has rolled over, and the real mileage is higher than shown.
Checklist before you bid
- 01
Title type
Is the lot's title Clean, Salvage or something else? Be careful with lots sold for parts only.
- 02
Photos
Look at every photo: body, tyres, interior, engine bay, airbags.
- 03
VIN history
Check the car's history by VIN (accidents, owners, mileage). Write to us to get the report.
- 04
Total cost
Calculate the total including repair, shipping and customs in the calculator.
- 05
Limit
Decide your maximum bid in advance. Backing out of a won lot leads to a penalty from the auction.
How the auction works and what the lot statuses mean is covered in What is a car auction, and the difference between Copart and IAAI in Copart and IAAI.
Calculate the cost of a specific car
Enter the price, engine, year and state to get the total to Baku with auction fee, shipping and customs.
