Damage types at US car auctions: how to read lot labels

Primary and secondary damage

A lot usually has two fields: Primary damage and Secondary damage. Primary damage is the main damage the auction recorded; secondary damage shows another damaged area and can be empty. IAAI lots may also have a “Loss type” field that shows why the car went to the insurer, for example collision, water or theft.

Both are the auction's initial notes and do not show every fault. For example, a car marked “Front End” may also have damage to the radiator and engine bay. Title types and odometer status are covered in what is a salvage title.

Usually cosmetic damage

• Minor Dents/Scratches: small dents and scratches. Usually cosmetic, but even if the photos show nothing else, a hidden fault cannot be ruled out.
• Normal Wear: no specific accident, wear in line with age and mileage. Such lots may come from dealers, leasing or rental companies. Still check the mechanical condition.
• Hail: hail damage, many small dents in the body, sometimes broken glass. It usually does not affect the mechanics, but body work can be expensive, so such a car may also sell with a salvage title.
• Vandalism: broken glass, a scratched body, a damaged interior, sometimes stolen parts. The risk depends on how much was damaged, so look closely at the photos.

Impact damage

• Front End: the front. The bumper, headlights, hood and radiator are damaged; in a strong impact the airbags deploy, and the cooling system and engine bay may be damaged too.
• Rear End: the rear. Bumper, trunk lid and rear panel. The engine is usually untouched, but a strong impact can bend the trunk floor and the rear of the body.
• Side: a side impact. Check the doors, pillars and side airbags. If a pillar is damaged, the body geometry may be off; if a wheel was hit, the suspension should be checked too.
• Undercarriage: the underside. The suspension, fuel tank, exhaust and, on an electric car, the battery can be damaged. It is hard to see in photos.
• Rollover: the car has rolled over. The roof, pillars, glass and several sides are damaged, and the airbags have often deployed. It is one of the hardest types to repair.
• All Over: damage on several sides of the car. Repairs are usually expensive.

The riskiest labels

• Water/Flood: flood damage. Electronics, wiring, corrosion and mould in the interior; problems can surface months later. On electric cars and hybrids the battery is at risk as well.
• Burn: fire damage. It may come as “Burn - Engine” (engine bay) or “Burn - Interior”. Wiring and plastic parts are damaged, and the extent is hard to judge from photos.
• Mechanical: an engine, transmission or other mechanical fault. It does not show in photos, the fault is usually not described, and the repair cost is not known in advance.

Condition labels

• Run and Drive: at the yard the engine was started and the car moved under its own power. This is only the result of the check at the yard; it does not confirm the car is roadworthy.
• Engine Starts: the engine starts, but driving was not tested. On Copart this may be shown as “Engine Start Program”.
• Stationary or Does not start: the engine does not start or was not tested.
• Enhanced Vehicle: extra work was done before the sale to improve how the car looks, for example cleaning or minor fixes. It does not mean the damage has been repaired: check what was done in the description and photos.
• Airbags deployed: the airbags have gone off, and replacing them is an expensive part of the repair. The Keys field shows whether there are keys.

How to judge the risk

1. 01

   Read both damage fields together.

   “Front End” plus “Undercarriage” can be more serious than “Front End” alone.

2. 02

   Look at every photo.

   The size of the damage, airbags, glass, interior and engine bay. A wheel standing at an angle can point to suspension damage.

3. 03

   Check the condition label.

   Run and Drive, Engine Starts or Stationary, and whether there are keys.

4. 04

   Check the title.

   Clean, Salvage or Parts only.

5. 05

   Add repairs to the budget.

   The repair cost is known only after inspection, so keep a reserve.

6. 06

   Set a limit.

   Backing out of a won lot leads to a penalty from the auction, so decide your maximum bid in advance.

Total cost before repairs

The auction fee, shipping and customs come on top of the auction price, and repairs are extra. The examples below include no repairs:

Calculate your own lot in the calculator. In Baku you can order diagnostics and body repair as an additional service; the price is confirmed after inspection.

A damage label is not a guarantee: the seller is responsible for the auction description. Whatever the label says, do not bid without looking at every photo and the full description.

How the auction works is on the What is an auction page, the difference between Copart and IAAI on Copart and IAAI, and how to take part on How to take part. Buying on IAAI: how to buy a car on IAAI.